Comprising the Ugandan portion of the Virungas, the 34km2 Mgahinga Gorilla National park (MGNP) is the smallest component in a 430km2 cross-boarder system of protected areas that incorporates the Rwandan and Congolese sectors of some volcanic mountain range. Established in 1930 as the Gorilla Game Sanctuary, MGNP was gazette in 1991, when more than 2,000 people were relocated from within its boundaries. Small it might be, but this is arguably the most scenic park in Uganda offering panaromic views hat stretch northward to Bwindi, and a southern skyline dominated by the steep volcanic cones of the Virungas, surely one of the most memorable and stirring sights in East Africa. MGNP’s main attraction as its name suggests, is gorilla tracking though it harbours only one habituated group as opposed to Bwindi dozen.
Other activities aimed mainly at Keen hikers and walkers, include a challenging day hike to the peaks of Muhabura, Gahinga and Sabinyo volcanoes as well as wgolden monkey tracking, a Batwa cultural trail, caving and forest walks.
Wildlife of Mgahinga
A checklist of 76 Mammals species includes mountain gorilla, black-and-white Colobus, leopard, elephant, giant forst hog, bushpig, buffalo, bushbuck, black fronted duiker, several varieties of rodents, bats and small predators and the charismatic golden monkey. A surprisingly small bird checklist of 115 species might be influenced by the park’s small size. But it also suggests that further species wait discovery. Even so, MGNP is still of great interest to birdwatchers, as of the several species recorded are localized forest specialists and 12 are Albertine Rift endemics.
What to see and do in Mgahinga
Activities described below can usually be arranged at thevisitor’s centre at Ntebeko Gate but it is advisable to drop into the UWA officein Kisoro before heading out there. Most activities start at Ntebeko gate, though the hike to Muhabura peak starts at Muhabura Gate, and gorilla tracks might start from either gate, depending on the expected location of the Habituated group.
Eight permits are issued daily to track the Nyakagezi Group which comprises of five Silverbacks, two adult females and three youngsters.
Guided day hikes to each of the three volcanic peaks in MGNP leave on demand daily at 07:00-07:30 at a cost of US$…… per person, inclusive of park enrance and guiding fees. A reasonable level of fitness is required for thesehikes, all of which take between 7 and 9 hours, while good boots, raingear and warmclothes are recommended.
The least-demanding hike, the 1,100m climb from Ntebeko Gate up Mount Gahinga, offers a good chance of seeing vaious forest birds in the bamboo zone, while duikers and bushbuck inhabit the marshy crater at the peak. The tougher 1,300m ascent from Ntebeko to Sabinyo, a round trip that takes at least 8 hours, passes through montane forest and moorland, and culminates in three challenging ladder climbs up rock faces that will sorely test anyone with a poor head for heights.
Less vertiginously challenging but far more of an uphill slog, the hike to the park’s highest point, the 4,127m Muhabura Peak, involves a 1,793m scent from the trailhead at Muhabura Gate, which means that hikers may well feel mildaltitude related near the peak. The open moorland that characterizes Muhabura offers views in all directions, though unless you are lucky this will be reduced by haze by the time you reach the top. Look out for Afro-Alpine endemics such as the beautiful scarlet tufted malachite sunbird. A small crater lake at the top of Muhabura is encircled by giant lobelias.
The next best thing to seeing mountain gorillas is the chance to tack the golden monkey (Cercopithecus Kandti), a little known bamboo-asssociated primate listed as Endagered by IUCN. Endemic to the Albertine Rift, the golden monkey is characterized by a bright orange-gold body, cheeks and tail, contrasting with its black limbs, crown and tail end.
As a result of deforestation elsewhere in the region, the Virungas now harbor the only remaining viable breeding population of the golden monkey, which is the numerically dominat primate within the restricted range-Indeed a 2003 survey estimated a population of 3,000-4,000 in Mgahinga Gorilla National Park alone. Golden monkey tracking excursions leave from Ntebeko at 08:30-09:00 daily cost US$…….exclusive of park entrance fees and involve an easy 90minute walk in either direction to the habituated troop’s home range. Ordinary trackers are allocated a maximum of one hour with the monkeys, but those who opt for the habituation experience (US$……..exclusive of park entrance fees) can spend all day with them.
Of particular interest to birders, this half day nature trail ascends from Ntebeko Gate through the heath into a stand of bamboo forest, then follows a small stream through the lushly forested Sabinyo Gorge. The bamboo forest is a good place to see golden monkey,as well as handsome francolin, Kivu ground thrush and regal sunbird. The evergreen forest harbours such localized birds as Rwenzori turaco, western green tinkerbird, olive woodpecker, African hill babbler, Archer’s ground robin, Rwenzori batis, montane sooty boubou, Lagden’s Bush shrike and strange Weaaver, several of which are Albertine Rift Endemics.
A welcome alternative to the usual tawdry visits to impoverished Batwa/Pygmy communities, this initiative provides a genuine opportunity to experience something of traditional Batwa forest Culture. The event follows a trail along the lower slopes of the Virunga to Garama Cave, and involves Batwa guide demonstrating a range of practical traditional skills such as lighting a fire by rubbing together sticks, bivouac building, target practice with a bow and arrow(meat must have been a rare dish indeed) and food gathering. The trail culminates with a memorable performance of Batwa song and music in the Council chamber of Garama Cave, a dramatic setting with powerful acoustics. Importantly the Batwa trail is no ‘pretty Pygmy’ celebration; the day should include a plight of the Batwa , who have been reduced to squatting in bivouacs on Bakiga-owned farmland along forest margins. The activity costs US$80 per person including park entranceand the fee is split approximately 50-50 between UWA and Batwa. Two Variations are possible both leaving at 08.30-09.00 and culminating in a visit to Garama cave. The short trail leaves from Ntebeko Gate ad takes around 3 hours while the longer trail leaves from Muhabura Gate and takes upto 7 hours
